From the north end of Vancouver Island up to the border with Alaska is 400 kilometers of forested islands separated by thousands of kilometers of inlets and bays and more. This is the largest intact temperate rainforest left on earth: the Great Bear Rainforest. Contained here is untouched forest interwoven with much heavy logging and threats of pipelines and tanker traffic shipping Alberta’s tar sands oil. We have found many contrasts here.
We’ve traveled only one of innumerable possible paths through this vast region, meeting with researchers, R2AK racers, fisherpeople, cruisers like us, and a few First Nations people.
At the Shearwater Marina and Resort (Bella Bella) a cruiser in a huge power boat assured us that wolves were not endangered out here while our reading told us of the uniqueness of these coastal wolf packs. We stayed on anchor in pristine bays below waterfalls coming down from old-growth forests and we have tied to a sketchy dock at Butedale’s historic and crumbling cannery – a representative of our failed industrial culture. Cory, the caretaker, is still using a bit of electricity from the ancient hydro turbine far below a lake to which we walked (up a steep and muddy trail). We have seen salmon jumping in front of our bow as they wait to join returning fish swimming upstream to their natal sites. At Hartley Bay we were told that the recent salmon derby was won by a fellow who caught a 35 pound fish while we believe that most of the salmon runs are collapsing. A young First Nations woman told us that her boyfriend had caught that salmon and she was very tired of eating fish (as she was checking her Facebook page).
A high point was in Aaltanhash Inlet. We slowly motored toward the head of this long fiord. Looking through binoculars a few miles ahead, we saw either a bear-sized rock or a rock-sized bear. We turned the engine off and quietly hoisted the jib and a slight upchannel breeze slowly took us forward. Eventually, we could see that this was a bear puttering around in the intertidal, likely eating mussels and crabs. It easily got wind of us and when we were maybe ¼ mile away, it skedaddled back into the forest.
One constancy here has been the friendliness of the many cruisers and locals whom we have met. With only one exception (the visitor information person at Alert Bay) everyone has been fantastic – including George of “Daring Boy” who boated over to us while we were in beautiful Khutze Inlet and gave us three huge Dungeness crabs. Our vegetarian, Val, dispatched them – “Sort of like doing science, I guess” said Val. We had delicious results for several days: crab salad, crab dip, crab omelets, and finally, crab cakes made with Leslie’s mom’s recipe.
We visited at Pacific Wild (Bella Bella) where Diana Chan made us a yummy lunch and showed us their extensive network of cameras and hydrophones. Ian McAllister generously gave us his most recent exquisite coffee table book Great Bear Wild. Check out Ian’s exceptional photography and writing at Amazon.com!
We are now at Cetacea Lab with whale researchers, Janie and Herman. We made the long passage from Hartley Bay down Whale Channel to their site at the south end of Gil Island and saw a humpback breaching and waving its pectoral fins in classic fashion. We also watched two others logging at the surface in front of a beautiful clear mountain backdrop.
Our plan, weather permitting, is to work our way about 70 miles farther north, and to meet with two other cruising sailboats to go to Haida Gwaii across the fearsome Hecate Strait in a group. (Cat’s Cradle seems happy with her new alternator and is now behaving beautifully.) Enroute to Spicer Island we had somewhat more than desired wind and waves and after some hours, we sneaked into a tiny cove for the night. The next day we motored and motot-sailed until we found our Canadian friends at anchor at Spicer Island. We poked around for two days listening to the fractional weather reports on the VHF radio and finally we decided to head for Haida Gwaii while our friends decided to stay a bit longer in the safety of this beautiful and fish-full cove.
Our crossing of the Hecate Strait started with low clouds and 15 kts NW winds. Perfect for sliding up and down the 1-2 m swell. In the mid day the wind dropped and we motored for an hour or so and then the wind veered around to the SE and S and off we went again, sailing toward Haida Gwaii on a beam reach.
We are now in Queen Charlotte City and will tomorrow start south to the place of beauty, “Guaii Haanas”, where there is no cell-phone, no internet, nothing but wild beauty!
Kim & Debby
16 Jul 2016Glad to hear your alternator is working and you are back on track to Haida Gwaii. We’ve been waiting out high winds in Port McNeil since Thursday and will leave early Sunday for Hakai if the weather gods allow. Had a great cultural experience yesterday in Alert Bay including dancing in the Big House. Returned to Corcovado with a stunning killer whale mask by Tim Alfred. We raised Ed and Shireen last night on C’est la Vie in Alaska. They are waiting for weather to cross Dixon Entrance. We may meet up with them on Princess Royal. We plan to talk regularly at 8:00p on 8294 USB. You’re welcome to join in if you have access to a HF radio.
Happy sailing!
K&D
Norris & Karen
16 Jul 2016There will be nothing left to see for those who follow in your footsteps.
Thank you for sharing this.
Susan and Don
16 Jul 2016Gorgeous pictures of wildlife and landscapes! I think I saw lettuce crab salad so hope you are enjoying the bounties of the sea as well as the wildlife. Glad to hear the alternator is functioning well. Take care!
Robin
17 Jul 2016Just back online and was thrilled to hear of your trip so far. Best to you both in Haida Gwaii! We will be home late tomorrow with new puppy. Excited to be going home to rest up before our voyage north.
More later.
Love, hugs and smooth sailing, Robin and Tom
scott
17 Jul 2016What a feast for the eyes (and Mom’s Maryland crab stomach)! Thanks for sharing the stunning photos and tales from the B.C. crossing. Bon chance on the crossing to Haida Gwaii.
Stormy Burns
18 Jul 2016More magical moments for me as I sail vicariously with you! Thank you again and again…
Lindsay
18 Jul 2016Looks and sounds absolutely magical up there. Sad to hear about a salmon derby when the population is collapsing. Good luck with your crossing!
Jane Smith
21 Jul 2016Hello from 510 Meister Way, Sacramento 95819….we are actually moved in!! Finally happened on Saturday, July 16 around 4pm!!! There is still some work to be done (probably everyday of our lives) but for now we can sleep, pee & bathe, refrigerate, and wash our clothes. Today we may even get to wash our dishes!!
Just now catching up on your travels and will unpack the Atlas to follow your journey north. Take care and enjoy this wonderful sailing adventure. Mostly, thank you for sharing it with us. xxoo
Julia R
24 Jul 2016Love the photo of Leslie in crab heaven!
Those having salmon derbies and cutting old growth forest might want to take a look at The Norwegian coast which is nearly barren of wildlife.